Sewing Tips

Fabric Questions:
Sewing Machine Questions:
     

I have no idea what this fabric is, help!

I think we all have some mystery fabric that both intrigues and scares us at the same time. Now, you can spend countless hours comparing it to other fabric and grilling it's original owner to determine it's contents, or you can do it the easy way, burn testing.  Burn testing, is the most accurate and quickest way of finding out what fabric you really have, plus, as long as you don't burn your house down, it's pretty darn fun! Sewing.org has a handy dandy chart and instruction pdf that is very helpful. Check it out...and be careful!  
Sewing.org Fabric Identification Chart
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Can I use a knit fabric on a pattern that says it's for wovens, and vice versa?

Yes, but with a few cautions. If it's a pattern designed for wovens, you will most likely need to go down a size or so. Patterns for woven fabric have ease worked into their designs, since knits have a natural ease to them, you don't need ease added to the pattern. How much you go down in size it totally up to how snug of a fit you want. Also, if the pattern has a zipper, eliminate it if you can, especially if you are a beginner with knit sewing. Zippers in knits can be a pain and are often unnecessary.   As for the other way around, using a woven on a knit pattern, we don't really suggest it. It takes a lot of pattern construction knowledge to turn that around and make a good fit. But we encourage you to bring both the fabric and the pattern into the store and we will take a look and give you our honest opinion!   Back to Top      

What type of needle do I need?

 
Fabric Weight
Fabric Type
Machine Needle
Stitch Length
Sheer
Batiste, chiffon,  nylon tricot, fine lace, organza, net
Universal or Microtex/ MSharp 60/8 or 85/9
2
Handkerchief linen, lawn, sheer crepe, voile
Universal 70/10 or 80/12
2.5
Light
Crepe de chine, cotton, gauze, georgette, gingham
Universal 60/8 or 65/9
2
Knits, double knits,  velour
Stretch 75/11
Zigzag 0.5/2.5
Satin
Microtex 70/10
2
Taffeta, silk
Universal 70/10
2.5
Wool challis
Universal 80/12
2.5
Microfiber
Microtex 60/8
1.5
Medium
Brocade
Universal 70/10
2.5
Corduroy, linen, muslin, pique, poplin, wool, wool crepe, tweed
80/12
2.5
Shantung
70/10
2.5
Sweatshirt
Stretch 75/11
Zigzag 0.5/3.0
Swimwear
Stretch 75/11
0.75/2.5
Synthetic suede
Jeans/Denim 75/11
2.5
Terry cloth,  velveteen
Universal 80/12
2.5 or 3.0
Medium - heavy
Coat-weight wool
Universal 90/14
3.0-3.5
Faux fur
80/12 or 90/14
Hinged seam
Felt,  fleece, gabardine
80/12
3
Leather, lightweight,  heavier weight
Jeans/Denim 70/10
3
Leather 90/14
Faux leather,  suede
Stretch 75/11
2.5
Quilted fabric
Quilting 75/11 or 90/14
3
Sweater knits
Stretch 75/11
Zigzag 0.75/2.5
Upholstery fabric
Jeans/Denim 90/14
3
Very heavy
Upholstery, heavy denim
Jeans/Denim 100/16
3
Double-faced coating
Universal 90/14
3.0-3.5
Canvas
Jeans/Denim 100/16 or 110/18
3.5
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What Just Happened? Upper Thread Breaks

Causes:
  • Incorrect threading
  • Knots or twists in thread
  • Tension too tight
  • Damaged/old needle
  • Needle too small
  Solutions:
  • Rethread machine properly
  • Replace thread
  • Reset bobbin and top thread tension
  • Replace needle
  • Use correct needle for thread and application
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What Just Happened? Bobbin Thread Breaks

  Causes:
  • Bobbin case incorrectly threaded
  • Bobbin case incorrectly inserted
  • Bobbin does not turn smoothly in bobbin case
  • Lint in bobbin case
  • Bobbin tension too tight
  Solutions:
  • Remove bobbin and re-thread with bobbin turning clockwise
  • Remove and re-insert bobbin case
  • Check that bobbin case and bobbin are in "round"; replace if necessary
  • Clean bobbin case and surrounding machine area
  • Check and reset bobbin tension
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What Just Happened? Skipped Stitches

Causes:
  • Thread tension too tight
  • Needle damaged
  • Needle wrong size
  • Sewing machine out of adjustment
  Solutions:
  • Reset top and bobbin tension
  • Replace needle
  • Use correct needle size
  • Have sewing machine adjusted for timing; hook to needle clearance; needle bar height
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What Just Happened? Frayed Stitches

  Causes:
  • Needle too small
  • Tension too tight
  • Damaged thread
  Solutions:
  • Increase needle size
  • Reset tension
  • Replace thread
 

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What Just Happened? Thread Loops on Bottom

  Causes:
  • Thread not in top tension
  • Machine incorrectly threaded
  • Top tension too loose
  • Burr on hook mechanism
  Solutions:
  • Rethread machine with presser foot "up"
  • Rethread machine incorporating take up lever
  • Reset top tension
  • Remove burr
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What Just Happened? Irregular Stitches or Malformed Stitches

Causes:
  • Wrong needle size
  • Incorrect threading
  • Upper tension too loose
  • Operator pulling fabric
  • Bobbin wound unevenly
  Solutions:
  • Ensure correct needle for fabric & thread
  • Un-thread machine and carefully rethread
  • Reset lower and upper thread tension
  • Check presser foot pressure
  • Rewind bobbin
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What Just Happened? Fabric Puckers

Causes:
  • Excessive stitch length
  • Needle point is blunt
  • Excessive thread tension
  • Fabric is too soft
  • Thread displacement — too much thread in a small area
  • Fabric not feeding
  Solutions:
  • Decrease stitch length
  • Change needle often
  • Check bobbin and upper tension
  • Use stabilizer
  • Decrease field density; scale embroidery designs; increase stitch length
  • Check presser foot, needle plate, feed dogs
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Can I sew over pins?

In short, NO. Pinning is great, sewing over them, super bad idea. You can break the machine, the needle, jam your fabric and damage it and if that isn’t enough to deter you, sewing over a pin could break off a shard of the needle and get it in your eye…IN YOUR EYE. Need we say more?   Back to Top  

How do I know my machine tension is right?

  A) When the looks form on the upper side of the fabric: tighten BOBBIN tension B) When loops form underneath the fabric: tighten the TOP tension C) The perfect stitch is the same on both sides   Back to Top      

What do all these machine feet do?

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I don't have a serger, how can I sew knits?

  Back to Top       excerpts from Cole, Julie, and Sharon Czachor. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. New York: Fairchild, 2009. Print. and "SCHMETZ Needles Learning Center." SCHMETZneedles.com. Web. 17 June 2011. <http://www.schmetzneedles.com/education.html>.   Return to Resources