Sewing Tips
Fabric Questions:
- I have no idea what this fabric is, help!
- Can I use a knit fabric on a pattern that says it's for wovens, and vice versa?
- What type of needle do I need?
- Is there a right way or a wrong way to finish seams?
Sewing Machine Questions:
- What Just Happened?
- Can I sew over pins?
- How do I know my machine tension is right?
- What do all these machine feet do?
- I don't have a serger, how can I sew knits?
I have no idea what this fabric is, help!
I think we all have some mystery fabric that both intrigues and scares us at the same time. Now, you can spend countless hours comparing it to other fabric and grilling it's original owner to determine it's contents, or you can do it the easy way, burn testing. Burn testing, is the most accurate and quickest way of finding out what fabric you really have, plus, as long as you don't burn your house down, it's pretty darn fun! Sewing.org has a handy dandy chart and instruction pdf that is very helpful. Check it out...and be careful!Sewing.org Fabric Identification Chart
Back to TopCan I use a knit fabric on a pattern that says it's for wovens, and vice versa?
Yes, but with a few cautions. If it's a pattern designed for wovens, you will most likely need to go down a size or so. Patterns for woven fabric have ease worked into their designs, since knits have a natural ease to them, you don't need ease added to the pattern. How much you go down in size it totally up to how snug of a fit you want. Also, if the pattern has a zipper, eliminate it if you can, especially if you are a beginner with knit sewing. Zippers in knits can be a pain and are often unnecessary. As for the other way around, using a woven on a knit pattern, we don't really suggest it. It takes a lot of pattern construction knowledge to turn that around and make a good fit. But we encourage you to bring both the fabric and the pattern into the store and we will take a look and give you our honest opinion! Back to TopWhat type of needle do I need?
|
Fabric Weight |
Fabric Type |
Machine Needle |
Stitch Length |
|
Sheer |
Batiste, chiffon, nylon tricot, fine lace, organza, net |
Universal or Microtex/ MSharp 60/8 or 85/9 |
2 |
|
Handkerchief linen, lawn, sheer crepe, voile |
Universal 70/10 or 80/12 |
2.5 |
|
|
Light |
Crepe de chine, cotton, gauze, georgette, gingham |
Universal 60/8 or 65/9 |
2 |
|
Knits, double knits, velour |
Stretch 75/11 |
Zigzag 0.5/2.5 |
|
|
Satin |
Microtex 70/10 |
2 |
|
|
Taffeta, silk |
Universal 70/10 |
2.5 |
|
|
Wool challis |
Universal 80/12 |
2.5 |
|
|
Microfiber |
Microtex 60/8 |
1.5 |
|
|
Medium |
Brocade |
Universal 70/10 |
2.5 |
|
Corduroy, linen, muslin, pique, poplin, wool, wool crepe, tweed |
80/12 |
2.5 |
|
|
Shantung |
70/10 |
2.5 |
|
|
Sweatshirt |
Stretch 75/11 |
Zigzag 0.5/3.0 |
|
|
Swimwear |
Stretch 75/11 |
0.75/2.5 |
|
|
Synthetic suede |
Jeans/Denim 75/11 |
2.5 |
|
|
Terry cloth, velveteen |
Universal 80/12 |
2.5 or 3.0 |
|
|
Medium - heavy |
Coat-weight wool |
Universal 90/14 |
3.0-3.5 |
|
Faux fur |
80/12 or 90/14 |
Hinged seam |
|
|
Felt, fleece, gabardine |
80/12 |
3 |
|
|
Leather, lightweight, heavier weight |
Jeans/Denim 70/10 |
3 |
|
|
Leather 90/14 |
|||
|
Faux leather, suede |
Stretch 75/11 |
2.5 |
|
|
Quilted fabric |
Quilting 75/11 or 90/14 |
3 |
|
|
Sweater knits |
Stretch 75/11 |
Zigzag 0.75/2.5 |
|
|
Upholstery fabric |
Jeans/Denim 90/14 |
3 |
|
|
Very heavy |
Upholstery, heavy denim |
Jeans/Denim 100/16 |
3 |
|
Double-faced coating |
Universal 90/14 |
3.0-3.5 |
|
|
Canvas |
Jeans/Denim 100/16 or 110/18 |
3.5 |
What Just Happened? Upper Thread Breaks
Causes:- Incorrect threading
- Knots or twists in thread
- Tension too tight
- Damaged/old needle
- Needle too small
- Rethread machine properly
- Replace thread
- Reset bobbin and top thread tension
- Replace needle
- Use correct needle for thread and application
What Just Happened? Bobbin Thread Breaks
Causes:- Bobbin case incorrectly threaded
- Bobbin case incorrectly inserted
- Bobbin does not turn smoothly in bobbin case
- Lint in bobbin case
- Bobbin tension too tight
- Remove bobbin and re-thread with bobbin turning clockwise
- Remove and re-insert bobbin case
- Check that bobbin case and bobbin are in "round"; replace if necessary
- Clean bobbin case and surrounding machine area
- Check and reset bobbin tension
What Just Happened? Skipped Stitches
Causes:- Thread tension too tight
- Needle damaged
- Needle wrong size
- Sewing machine out of adjustment
- Reset top and bobbin tension
- Replace needle
- Use correct needle size
- Have sewing machine adjusted for timing; hook to needle clearance; needle bar height
What Just Happened? Frayed Stitches
Causes:- Needle too small
- Tension too tight
- Damaged thread
- Increase needle size
- Reset tension
- Replace thread
Back to Top
What Just Happened? Thread Loops on Bottom
Causes:- Thread not in top tension
- Machine incorrectly threaded
- Top tension too loose
- Burr on hook mechanism
- Rethread machine with presser foot "up"
- Rethread machine incorporating take up lever
- Reset top tension
- Remove burr
What Just Happened? Irregular Stitches or Malformed Stitches
Causes:- Wrong needle size
- Incorrect threading
- Upper tension too loose
- Operator pulling fabric
- Bobbin wound unevenly
- Ensure correct needle for fabric & thread
- Un-thread machine and carefully rethread
- Reset lower and upper thread tension
- Check presser foot pressure
- Rewind bobbin
What Just Happened? Fabric Puckers
Causes:- Excessive stitch length
- Needle point is blunt
- Excessive thread tension
- Fabric is too soft
- Thread displacement — too much thread in a small area
- Fabric not feeding
- Decrease stitch length
- Change needle often
- Check bobbin and upper tension
- Use stabilizer
- Decrease field density; scale embroidery designs; increase stitch length
- Check presser foot, needle plate, feed dogs